How to Get a Comic Book Graded: CGC vs. CBCS, Costs & Common Mistakes
Picture this: you pull a favorite issue from your long box, hands a little shaky, wondering, “Is this worth grading—or am I about to waste money?” That question has crossed the mind of almost every collector at some point. Grading can feel confusing because there are so many moving parts: which company to choose, how much it’s going to cost, how long it will take, and whether your comic is even a good candidate for grading in the first place.
The good news is grading doesn’t have to be overwhelming. In plain English, I’ll walk you through exactly how to get a comic book graded, from deciding whether it’s worth it to prepping and shipping, understanding timelines, avoiding costly mistakes, and knowing what to do once the grade comes back. By the end, you’ll know how to approach grading with confidence instead of second-guessing.
Here’s the roadmap: we’ll start with a quick 5-step checklist so you can act today, then cover when grading makes sense (and when it doesn’t), compare CGC vs. CBCS and other companies, explain how to prep your book, go through the submission process step by step, break down costs and timelines, and finally, outline smart next moves once your slab is in hand.
Quick Answer—How to Get a Comic Book Graded (5-Step Checklist)
If you want the short version, here’s the process boiled down into five simple steps:
Decide if it’s worth grading. Confirm it’s a first print, key issue, and in reasonably high condition.
Pick a grading company and service tier. Match it to your comic’s value, budget, and timeline.
Prep safely. Use a fresh bag and board; skip DIY cleaning or pressing unless you’re highly experienced.
Submit and ship correctly. Fill out the forms carefully, insure the package, and pack to prevent edge or spine damage.
Track, receive, and plan next steps. Once your slab comes back, understand the label and notes, then decide whether to store, display, or sell.
Now that you’ve got the big picture, the first real question is whether your comic is even worth sending off in the first place.
Should You Get Your Comic Graded? (Make the Decision With Confidence)
Grading adds cost, time, and risk to the equation. Before you send anything, ask yourself these questions.
The self-check questions
Is it a key issue? First appearances, iconic covers, low-print runs, or price variants are prime candidates. Think along the lines of Amazing Fantasy #15 (Spider-Man’s first appearance) or New Mutants #98 (Deadpool’s first appearance).
Is it first print? Reprints and facsimiles usually aren’t worth the grading cost. Check the indicia—the fine print inside the cover—or look at price and barcode details to confirm.
Is the condition likely high? Minimal spine ticks, sharp corners, strong gloss, and no stains or detached staples are signs a book may grade well. A ragged copy might still hold value if it’s a Golden Age or rare key, but otherwise condition is king.
What’s your goal? If you’re selling soon, grading builds buyer trust and can raise the final sale price. If you’re keeping it, grading provides long-term protection and display appeal.
When grading might not be worth it
Common, modern books in mid- or low-grade condition usually aren’t worth it. The cost of grading, shipping, and fees may exceed the market value of the book. Books with obvious restoration or color touch also lose resale value, unless they’re historically rare. And if total fees plus shipping eat up more than 25–40% of the book’s realistic market value, it’s better to hold off.
Engagement prompt: Grab the comic you’re most excited about and run it through those four questions. Gut check—does it feel like a “yes” or a “not right now”? If it’s leaning yes, the next step is choosing a grading company.
CGC vs. CBCS vs. Others—Which Grading Company Should You Use?
This is where many collectors get stuck, but the truth is your options are simpler than they look.
What actually matters
Market acceptance is the biggest factor—buyers tend to trust some slabs more than others. Turnaround time matters if you’re on a deadline, and each company has different service tiers. Signature verification is another consideration—if you have a signed comic without a certificate, not every grader will handle that the same way. Slab quality and label clarity are also worth looking at since some collectors prefer certain designs. Finally, grader notes—how detailed and accessible they are—help you learn and explain defects to buyers.
Simple, neutral comparison
CGC: The most recognized name in grading. Their blue Universal label is the industry standard, and CGC slabs usually command the highest resale prices. They offer multiple tiers, from economy to express, depending on your comic’s declared value and how fast you want it back.
CBCS: Known for accurate grading and strong reputation. A major advantage is their signature verification service, which lets you grade signed books even if a witness wasn’t present. They’re generally more affordable and have competitive turnaround times.
PGX and others: Considered budget options. Some collectors use them for personal collections, but resale demand is weaker compared to CGC or CBCS. Always research current reputation and what buyers in your market actually trust.
Transition: Once you’ve picked your company, the next step is preparing your comic so it arrives in one piece—and without losing grade potential from careless handling.
Prep Like a Pro (Without Damaging Your Book)
The number one mistake new collectors make is damaging their comic during prep. It sounds dramatic, but even pulling tape across a cover can downgrade a book.
Gentle handling rules
Always handle with clean, dry hands and open covers slowly. Use a fresh acid-free bag and board, not the crinkled one it’s been sitting in for years. For higher-value keys, Mylar bags provide extra protection. And a golden rule—keep tape far from edges; even a light touch can tear paper.
Cleaning and pressing—pro vs. DIY
Pressing can sometimes bump a comic’s grade, but it’s a skill. Done poorly, DIY pressing or cleaning can permanently damage the book. Unless you’ve trained and practiced on low-value issues, it’s smarter to use a reputable professional or the grader’s in-house pressing service. For many books, a proper press can mean the difference between a 9.4 and a 9.8, which can translate to hundreds or thousands of dollars in value.
Document the book
Before shipping, take natural-light photos of the front, back, spine, and corners. This protects you for insurance purposes and helps track the book’s condition if anything happens in transit. Note any signatures, certificates of authenticity, or special variants. These details matter for submission forms and resale later.
Engagement prompt: Take five quick photos of your top candidate comic right now—front, back, close-ups of the spine and corners. You’ll be glad you did if you ever need proof.
Now that your book is prepped and documented, it’s time to actually send it in.
Step-by-Step Submission Walkthrough
Here’s the process most collectors follow once they’re ready to grade.
1) Create an account and choose a tier
Start by making an account with your chosen company. Service tiers are based on declared value and turnaround time. Lower-value books can go through economy tiers, while high-value keys may require premium tiers with higher fees but better insurance coverage.
2) Add-ons (optional but useful)
Some companies offer pressing and cleaning services, fast track options, or signature verification. These can be worth it if you’re chasing a higher grade or need the book back quickly. Just keep in mind each add-on raises the cost.
3) Complete forms carefully
This part can feel tedious but accuracy matters. Fill in the exact title, issue number, year, variant details, and declared value. Mistakes here can slow the process or cause insurance issues. You’ll also choose your return shipping preferences, so make sure the address and method are correct.
4) Pack and ship
Use the “sandwich method.” Place the comic (in bag and board) between two rigid pieces of cardboard, secure with painter’s tape, wrap in bubble wrap, then place snugly inside a sturdy box. For high-value books, double-box by placing that box inside a second, slightly larger one with padding to prevent movement. Always insure the package for at least the declared value and save your receipts and tracking numbers.
5) Track status
Once the book is shipped, most grading companies provide online dashboards where you can follow progress. Turnaround time depends on your chosen tier and current demand. Some services can take weeks, others months, so set realistic expectations.
Transition: While you’re waiting, it helps to know what the numbers and labels on your future slab will actually mean.
Understanding Grades, Labels, and Notes
When your slab finally arrives, the first thing you’ll notice is the grade. Grading companies use a 10-point scale, and each number has specific meaning for condition and market value.
The 10-point scale explained
9.8–9.6: Near Mint+ to Near Mint. These are the modern grails—tiny flaws allowed, like a single barely visible spine tick. Collectors pay serious premiums for these grades.
9.4–8.0: Very Fine to Near Mint-. Strong collectibles that show light wear but still look sharp. Many Silver and Bronze Age keys land in this range.
7.5–5.0: Fine to Very Fine-. Noticeable wear like multiple spine ticks, color breaks, or light creases. Still valuable for key issues but usually less sought after by perfectionists.
4.5 and below: Very Good down to Poor. Heavy wear, detached covers, or even missing pieces. These grades only hold strong value if the comic is a historic key.
Label types you’ll see
Universal/Blue Label: The standard—no special qualifiers, just a straight grade.
Qualified/Green Label: Indicates a missing piece, writing, or other defect that prevented a universal grade. For example, a missing coupon or an unwitnessed signature.
Signature/Yellow Label: For verified signatures. CGC uses authorized witnesses; CBCS offers verification for existing autographs. These are popular with collectors of signed comics.
Restored/Purple Label: Means the comic has been restored (color touch, trimming, added pages). Restoration usually lowers resale value compared to unrestored copies, but rare books can still sell well.
Grader notes
Grader notes explain why a comic received its grade. They can mention defects like spine stress, color breaks, or corner bends. CGC sometimes requires higher tiers for detailed notes, while CBCS tends to be more transparent. These notes are valuable for learning and for being honest with potential buyers.
Understanding the scale and label types helps you make smart decisions after grading. But before you get too excited, you’ll need to know what this whole process costs and how long it might take.
Costs & Timeline: Plan Your Budget (and Expectations)
The biggest shock for new collectors is realizing grading isn’t free. Between fees, shipping, and extras, the costs add up fast.
Typical cost components
Grading fee: This varies by company, tier, and declared value. Expect anywhere from $20–$100+ per book depending on speed and value.
Add-ons: Pressing, fast track services, or signature verification can each add $10–$30 or more.
Shipping & insurance: You pay to send books in and to get them back. Costs depend on declared value and weight but can easily hit $20–$50+ round trip.
Supplies: Don’t forget fresh bags, boards, Mylar, rigid cardboard, bubble wrap, and boxes. Not expensive per book, but necessary.
Quick rule-of-thumb math
Add up the grading fee, extras, and shipping both ways. Then compare the total cost to the comic’s realistic market value at your target grade. If costs eat up more than 25–40% of potential sale value, think twice. Example: grading a $50 comic isn’t worth a $60 investment in fees and shipping. But grading a $1,000 comic for $75 makes sense.
Timeline basics
Standard tiers can take months, especially during peak hobby news cycles or convention season. Fast track services cost more but can return books in weeks. Seasonal demand matters too—when a new Marvel or DC movie drops, grading companies often see surges that slow turnaround times. Always check current estimates on the company’s website before submitting.
Engagement prompt: Write down the maximum you’d be willing to spend all-in on grading your candidate comic. Does the math still make sense after comparing to recent sales?
Common Mistakes (and Easy Fixes)
Grading is exciting, but it’s easy to make missteps. Here are some common ones to avoid.
Overcleaning or DIY pressing damage: Many collectors try to press or clean their comics at home to save money. Done wrong, this can permanently damage the book. Solution: use a pro service or skip it altogether.
Under-declaring value: Some think declaring a lower value saves on fees. In reality, it can void insurance if something goes wrong. Always declare an honest, realistic value.
Weak packing: Comics shift during shipping if packed loosely. Use rigid cardboard, bubble wrap, and double-box for high-value slabs.
Submitting reprints or facsimiles thinking they’re originals: Always confirm indicia and details. Don’t assume “old-looking” means first print.
Ignoring recent sold prices: Asking prices on eBay don’t equal real market value. Always check completed or sold listings.
Grading everything: Not every comic deserves a slab. Focus on keys and books that make sense economically.
Fixing these mistakes is simple—be honest, pack carefully, and only submit books that meet the math and condition test.
After the Grade: Store, Display, or Sell
Your slab is in hand. Now what?
If keeping
Store slabs upright in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight and humidity. Over time, cases can scratch or crack; companies offer reholdering services if needed. For display, use UV-protected cases or frames to prevent sun damage.
If selling
Take clear, reflection-free photos of the slab and label. Be upfront with grader notes and defects. Compare selling venues: eBay and Heritage Auctions reach big audiences; local comic shops and shows may offer convenience but lower payouts. Timing matters too—selling a key issue right before a movie release can maximize value.
If disappointed by the grade
Not every book comes back at the grade you expect. Use grader notes to learn. If pressable defects were missed, consider professional pressing and resubmission, but only if the expected bump justifies the added cost. Otherwise, accept the grade and plan accordingly—sometimes it’s better to hold or sell as is.
Quick FAQs
How long does grading take? Standard tiers can take months; fast track services can be a few weeks but cost more. Always check the company’s current estimate.
Should I press my comic? Yes if defects are pressable (like spine rolls or bends) and the comic is valuable enough to justify the cost. No if it’s low-value or risks outweigh the potential bump.
Can I grade a signed comic? Yes, but you must follow the grading company’s signature rules. CGC requires witnessed signatures, while CBCS offers verification for existing ones.
Can I crack a slab and resubmit? You can, but it’s risky. Protect the book, and only do it if you believe pressing or cleaning can increase the grade significantly.
Does restoration kill value? Restoration usually reduces resale value compared to unrestored copies. That said, rare Golden Age keys can still command strong prices even with restoration.
Conclusion: Your Smart Path to Comic Grading
Let’s recap the essentials.
Grade only when the book’s value, condition, and your goals line up.
Choose the grading company and service tier that fit your needs and budget.
Prep safely, pack securely, and insure your shipment.
Learn from the grade and notes—whether you’re keeping, reholdering, or selling.
Action steps for today:
Pick one comic you’re considering grading.
Run it through the 5-step checklist.
Estimate all-in costs versus likely value.
If it pencils out, start your submission.
You don’t need a museum piece to enjoy grading and collecting. Smart, patient decisions can make this hobby both fun and profitable. If you want more help, check out our printable Comic Grading Prep & Packing Guide or drop a comment with photos—I’ll happily point you in the right direction.
